Friday, August 31, 2018

Day 12 Onwards

As we will be located in Milwaukee until Sunday I will just add photos on a random basis.

Possibly the earliest Harley model:




A replica of the shed where the first models were built.


Surprise guests at the hotel - (only masks)

Interesting architecture in Milwaukee



The Fonz - you'd think he'd be taller !



A distraction back at the HD Museum


Lady with 2 large dogs at hotel


Great band on Saturday afternoon at hotel







Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Day 11 - Kenosha to Milwaukee - 60 miles

Another night of rain and thunder.  We made a late-ish start (10 am) as we only had a short distance to ride.  Our first stop was the beach at Racine on the shore of Lake Michegan.


From there we rode to the main Harley dealership which was hosting an event complete with stalls and (later) entertainment.


From there we rode into central Milwaukee to our hotel.  Apart from the short trip on Sunday to take the bikes to the dept in Chicago - this was really the end of the ride - 2,587 miles after leaving Seattle.

Our accommodation at the Iron Horse Hotel was more luxurious than other stops.  Picture below is of a very decorous chopper in the lobby.

In the late afternoon we made our way to a large Rally in Veterans Park.


Featuring some hair-raising stunt riding:

Most of the group went for a Mexican meal before returning to the hotel and a live band in the grounds.






Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Day 10 - La Crosse to Kenosha - 250 miles


This was the last major leg of our dash from Seattle to Milwaukee.  First lets back track a little.  Monday night in La Crosse saw severe thunder and lightening.  Dave and I just managed to get the last willing Uber car to take us back from an excellent meal at the Irish Pub in downtown La Crosse to our hotel in the outskirts.  While we observed an amazing thunder and lightening show from the safety of our 3rd floor hotel room, the town and surrounding area witnessed the worst flooding for 11 years.  Our route for Tuesday had to be modified -  as roads along the Mississippi were under water.

Waking to unexpected bright skies we sped along the freeway eastwards. Even putting aside the recent deluge, the countryside more closely resembled the UK in contrast to the endless agricultural plains we had crossed in the last 2 or 3 days. At Madison we popped into the Harley dealership.



Our Tour leader Jeff had planned to get us to our destination in quick order to avoid further rain forecast for the afternoon.  In the early afternoon we reached our hotel, dropped our luggage in our rooms and headed to a lake-side gastro-pub for a group lunch.


We met some of the riders on other legs of the Eaglerider tours heading for Milwaukee but headed for an early night as the rain began again in force.



Monday, August 27, 2018

Day 9 - Sioux Falls to Lacrosse 300 miles

A dash across the prairie today, continuing on our journey to Milwaukee. The morning was fairly uneventful - apart from me almost exiting the motorway by accident and having to cut back through the bollard while Burt in the van held back the traffic.

Lunch at a Harley dealership with lost more riders converging for the big event in Milwaukee in a couple of days' time.



Rode on through the humid afternoon and reached our hotel in Lacrosse by 3 pm. 'Any relation to the game of the same name I hear you ask?' - well maybe because, according to Wikipedia:

'Lacrosse has its origins in a tribal game played by eastern Woodlands Native Americans and by some Plains Indians tribes in what is now the United States of America and Canada. The game was extensively modified by European colonisers to North America to create its current collegiate and professional form' 

- not a lot of people know that !

Given the Custer references earlier and the various reservations along our route, for those interested some notes on the North American Indians follow:

Plains Indians or Indigenous people of the Great Plains and Canadian Prairies are the Native American tribes and First Nation band governments who have traditionally lived on the Great Plains and the Canadian Prairies. Their historic nomadic culture and development of equestrian culture and resistance to domination by the government and military forces of Canada and the United States have made the Plains Indian culture groups an archetype in literature and art for American Indians everywhere.

Plains Indians are usually divided into two broad classifications which overlap to some degree. The first group became a fully nomadic horse culture during the 18th and 19th centuries, following the vast herds of buffalo, although some tribes occasionally engaged in agriculture. The nomadic tribes historically survived on hunting and gathering, and the American Bison was one primary resource for items which people used for everyday life, including food, cups, decorations, crafting tools, knives, and clothing.  The tribes followed the seasonal grazing and migration of buffalo. The Plains Indians lived in teepees because they were easily disassembled and allowed the nomadic life of following game. When horses were obtained, the Plains tribes rapidly integrated them into their daily lives. People in the southwest began to acquire horses in the 16th century by trading or stealing them from Spanish colonists in New Mexico. As horse culture moved northward, the Comanche were among the first to commit to a fully mounted nomadic lifestyle. This occurred by the 1730s, when they had acquired enough horses to put all their people on horseback.

By the 19th century, the typical year of the Lakota and other northern nomads was a communal buffalo hunt as early in spring as their horses had recovered from the rigors of the winter. In June and July the scattered bands of the tribes gathered together into large encampments, which included ceremonies such as the Sun Dance. These gatherings afforded leaders to meet to make political decisions, plan movements, arbitrate disputes, and organize and launch raiding expeditions or war parties. In the fall, people would split up into smaller bands to facilitate hunting to procure meat for the long winter. Between the fall hunt and the onset of winter was a time when Lakota warriors could undertake raiding and warfare. With the coming of winter snows, the Lakota settled into winter camps, where activities of the season ceremonies and dances as well as trying to ensure adequate winter feed for their horses.

Pueblo Indians learned about horses by working for Spanish colonists. The Spanish attempted to keep knowledge of riding away from Native people, but nonetheless, they learned and some fled their servitude to their Spanish employers—and took horses with them. Some horses were obtained through trade in spite of prohibitions against it. Other horses escaped captivity for a feral existence and were captured by Native people. In all cases the horse was adopted into their culture and herds multiplied. By 1659, the Navajo from northwestern New Mexico were raiding the Spanish colonies to steal horses. By 1664, the Apache were trading captives from other tribes to the Spanish for horses. The real beginning of the horse culture of the plains began with the expulsion of the Spanish from New Mexico in 1680 when the victorious Pueblo people captured thousands of horses and other livestock. They traded many horses north to the Plains Indians. The French explorer Claude Charles Du Tisne found 300 horses among the Wichita on the Verdigris River in 1719, but they were still not plentiful. Another Frenchman, Bourgmont, could only buy seven at a high price from the Kaw in 1724, indicating that horses were still scarce among tribes in Kansas. While the distribution of horses proceeded slowly northward on the Great Plains, it moved more rapidly through the Rocky Mountains and the Great Basin. The Shoshone in Wyoming had horses by about 1700 and the Blackfoot people, the most northerly of the large Plains tribes, acquired horses in the 1730s.
By 1770, that Plains Indians culture was mature, consisting of mounted buffalo-hunting nomads from Saskatchewan and Alberta southward nearly to the Rio Grande. Soon afterwards pressure from Europeans on all sides and European diseases caused its decline.

Before their adoption of guns, the Plains Indians hunted with spears, bows, and various forms of clubs. The use of horses by the Plains Indians made hunting (and warfare) much easier. With horses, the Plains Indians had the means and speed to stampede or overtake the bison. The Plains Indians reduced the length of their bows to three feet to accommodate their use on horseback. They continued to use bows and arrows after the introduction of firearms, because guns took too long to reload and were too heavy. In the summer, many tribes gathered for hunting in one place. The main hunting seasons were fall, summer, and spring. In winter harsh snow and mighty blizzards made it more difficult to locate and hunt bison.

There were U.S. government initiatives at the federal and local level to starve the population of the Plains Indians by killing off their main food source, the bison. Bison were hunted by market hunting almost to extinction in the 19th century and were reduced to a few hundred by the early 1900s. They were slaughtered for their skins, with the rest of the animal left behind to decay on the ground. After the animals rotted, their bones were collected and shipped back east in large quantities. The Government promoted bison hunting for various reasons: to allow ranchers to range their cattle without competition from other bovines and to weaken the Plains Indian population and pressure them to remain on reservations. The herds formed the basis of the economies of the Plains tribes. Without bison, the people were forced to move onto reservations or starve.
The railroad industry also wanted bison herds culled or eliminated. Herds of bison on tracks could damage locomotives when the trains failed to stop in time. Herds often took shelter in the artificial cuts formed by the grade of the track winding through hills and mountains in harsh winter conditions. As the great herds began to wane, proposals to protect the bison were discussed. In 1874, President Ulysses S. Grant "pocket vetoed" a Federal bill to protect the dwindling bison herds, and in 1875 General Philip Sheridan pleaded to a joint session of Congress to slaughter the herds, to deprive the Plains Indians of their source of food.

The semi-sedentary, village-dwelling Plains Indians depended upon agriculture for a large share of their livelihood, particularly those who lived in the eastern parts of the Great Plains which had more precipitation than the western side. Corn was the dominant crop, followed by squash and beans. Tobacco, sunflower, plums and other wild plants were also cultivated or gathered in the wild. Among the wild crops gathered the most important were probably berries to flavour pemmican and the Prairie Turnip.

Three factors led to a growing importance of warfare in Plains Indian culture. First, was the Spanish colonization of New Mexico which stimulated raids and counter-raids by Spaniards and Indians for goods and slaves. Second, was the contact of the Indians with French fur traders which increased rivalry among Indian tribes to control trade and trade routes. Third, was the acquisition of the horse and the greater mobility it afforded the Plains Indians. What evolved among the Plains Indians from the 17th to the late 19th century was warfare as both a means of livelihood and a sport. Young men gained both prestige and plunder by fighting as warriors, and this individualistic style of warfare ensured that success in individual combat and capturing trophies of war were highly esteemed.The Plains Indians raided each other, the Spanish colonies, and, increasingly, the encroaching frontier of the Anglos for horses, and other property. They acquired guns and other European goods primarily by trade. Their principal trading products were buffalo hides and beaver pelts. The most renowned of all the Plains Indians as warriors were the Comanche whom The Economist noted in 2010: "They could loose a flock of arrows while hanging off the side of a galloping horse, using the animal as protection against return fire. The sight amazed and terrified their white (and Indian) adversaries.

Due to their mobility, endurance, horsemanship, and knowledge of the vast plains that were their domain, the Plains Indians were often victors in their battles against the U.S. army in the American era from 1803 to about 1890. However, although Indians won many battles, they could not undertake lengthy campaigns. Indian armies could only be assembled for brief periods of time as warriors also had to hunt for food for their families. The exception to that was raids into Mexico by the Comanche and their allies in which the raiders often subsisted for months off the riches of Mexican haciendas and settlements. The basic weapon of the Indian warrior was the short, stout bow, designed for use on horseback and deadly, but only at short range. Guns were usually in short supply and ammunition scarce for Native warriors.




Sunday, August 26, 2018

Day 8 - Rapid City to Sioux Falls (400 miles)


A very long ride today - leaving the slopes of the South Dakota Black Hills and heading eastwards over the flatter plains of the Missouri River basin.  We didn't have time to visit the Badlands Park area, which looks like this:

Essentially 'badlands' is a term relating to areas where shale and soft sedimentary rock are eroding so quickly that a) this results in steep slopes and b) there is no time to a accumulate decaying organic matter in the topsoil conducive to crop cultivation. On the road out from Rapid city we could see a continuation of the 'erosion front' of grey shale to the north.

No definitive proof - but looking at the map of the Indian Reservations - one couldn't help concluding that they did not coincide with the more fertile farming land. 

We rode across undulating fairly poor farmland and dropped into a flatter plain system before stopping for coffee at Midland, South Dakota (got the T Shirt). 


We journeyed on through increasingly fertile farmland - miles of corn and sunflower fields. The land became increasingly flatter - real 'big sky' country - complete with an impending thunder storm which we could see in the form of ghostly grey veils of rain.  Thankfully we missed most of this and arrived at Pierre before the big drops fell.  Pierre is located on the banks of the mighty Missouri - much wider than I had expected.




We had lunch at the local Harley Davidson dealership and rode on after the rain.


The rest of the day was a long ride across open farmland - much of this on good secondary roads rather than the freeway.  


We rolled into Sioux Falls by 5 pm feeling in need of rest, beer and food after 400 miles.  Unfortunately for Dave and I - a mix-up at the hotel reception saw a lady pitch up at our room who had been double booked.  Dave (by this time in T shirt and undies) diplomatically suggested she re-check with reception with the additional reassuring statement that at least she wouldn't recognise him fully clothed in the bar later on. Fortunately the response was a loud chuckle !









Saturday, August 25, 2018

Day 7 - Day trip from Rapid City to Mt Rushmore, Custer State Park and Sturgis (around 120 miles)


A later start than normal - out on the road for 9 am.  The lanscape/scenery around the Black Hills National Forest was fantastic - ranging from ranch pasture to conifer wooded hills to stark granite peaks and domes. First stop was Mount Rushmore where the heads of Presidents George Washington,
Abraham Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt and Thomas Jefferson have been sculpted in the granite.



We next rode through Custer State Park which is very extensive and saw bison and donkeys. Stopped to take in the scenery.





Jeff the Lead rider


Burt - The support driver


Dennis - from California

We rode into the town of Custer for lunch.

The original plan was to visit the town of Deadwood (another old western - style main street) but it was hosting a classic car rally and no parking was to be had.  Off to Sturgis then - something of a Mecca for serious bike riders due to the annual Sturgis Rally - the largest motorbike event in the world.  This has taken place a couple of weeks ago and we unexpectedly found a very quiet atmosphere - with many store owners probably having gone on vacation to spend their takings. Contrast the picture of Sturgis main street today - with the same street 2 weeks ago:


As a consolation for missing out on Deadwood, the following link takes you to a young Doris Day singing 'The Deadwood Stage':

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_xmujSyxkU

Background on the Sturgis Rally:

The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally is an American motorcycle rally held annually in Sturgis, South Dakota, for ten days usually during the first full week of August. It was begun in 1938 by a group of Indian Motorcycle riders and was originally held for stunts and races. Attendance has historically been around 500,000 people, reaching a high of over 700,000 in 2015. The event generates around $800 million in revenue.  

The first rally was held by Indian Motorcycle riders on August 14, 1938, by the Jackpine Gypsies motorcycle club. The first event was called the "Black Hills Classic" and consisted of a single race with nine participants and a small audience. 

The focus of a motorcycle rally was originally racing and stunts. In 1961, the rally was expanded to include the Hillclimb and Motocross races. This could include half-mile track racing (the first year in Sturgis, there were 19 participants), intentional board wall crashes, ramp jumps and head-on collisions with automobiles. The Sturgis Rally has been held every year, with exceptions during World War II. For instance, in 1942, the event was not held due to gasoline rationing.